“So what does ‘petits plat’ mean, then?”. Well, exactly what it translates to in the French-English dictionary: a little plate. “Okay. But what goes on top of the little plate?”. Ah, now there’s the real question. French chef Michel Lemoine chooses to top his ‘little plates’ with tasteful goodies that, depending which ones you choose, aren’t actually that little at all: the meatier options in particular are positively sturdy, fresh fish dishes come buoyed along on some remarkably imaginative salad/grain combinations and most fluctuate around the £5 mark – hoorah! “So – it’s sort of French tapas, then?”. In philosophical terms, perhaps. But a gentle emphasis on confits, tatins, rillettes, etc confirm Gallic foundations, a chic but laid-back ambience far removed from the bustling, traditional Spanish tapas experience and a knowledgeable, well-considered wine list (mainly French, ne c’est pas, with most available by the glass) encourages gourmet grazing rather than good-time guzzling. It can feel a little bereft of personality when business isn’t bustling, but pavement seating out front and a gorgeous garden to the rear are set to come into their own when the sun comes out, completing the Franglais ‘holiday at home’ experience.

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A-Z • Alfresco hotspots • Lazy cafes & restaurants • Party venues