A few short years ago, this place was a really grim, grotty pub. Today, it’s a smart little bar with a cosy snug in the basement and a pretty supper room upstairs — the epitome of right-now chic. The dining room experience is a bit like going round to a friend’s house for supper — if, that is, your friends happen to be kitchen gods with a tastefully decorated, airy kitchen that seats 40. Furniture is artfully mismatched, the welcome is natural rather than rehearsed, and within seconds, even the traffic that thunders by below the window starts to feel like a whole world away. Understated, thoughtfully balanced menus further bolster the zeitgeist theme (local organics, seasonality and impeccable sourcing skip lightly around the otherwise plain descriptions) and, as you’d expect, a well-stocked bar comes as standard. The bill might come as a bit of a shock for those on a limited budget, but it’s worth splashing out for and the recent introduction of a two-course/£24 set menu (three courses/£29) represents exceptional value for money.

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A-Z • Gourmet restaurants • Lazy cafes & restaurants • Roast dinner experts • Romantic restaurants