Whether the upsurge in the popularity of Thai restaurants means that the Great British tradition for ‘going for a curry’ will eventually be overtaken as we all become as au fait with red and green pads as we are with kormas is debatable. We hope that places like this don’t succumb to the current contemporary craze and turn into a canteen-style diner. The Mai Thai is a long-established stalwart of Bath’s Thai food scene, and the décor attests to its history, featuring the kind of obliviously innocent, kitsch touches that give local institutions like this such charm. After you’ve taken in the staff’s gorgeous, traditional gold-trimmed frocks and the ribbon-draped Hindu deities along the bar, take a moment to ponder the surreal 3D landscapes carved into the wood under the glass of the heavy oak tables. Then cover them with your napkin and embark on a tour through the all-encompassing, classic Thai menus. This isn’t firework food (you’ll find more old familiars than nouveau flourishes), but it’s fresh and full of integrity, at prices to match.

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A-Z • Bath Institutions • Budget restuarants • Business restaurants • Refuelling spots