Plonking a chain that specialises in distinctly 21^st century ‘concept’ dining into a grade ii listed shopping complex could easily have been a recipe for disaster. But as it happens, the Bath branch of YO! Sushi – the UK’s original purveyors of sushi and related treats delivered via the Japanese ‘kaiten’ method (ie, on a conveyor belt) – somehow fits seamlessly into a lively hubbub that’s already home to a branch of Jamie’s Italian and several independent eating and drinking hotspots. Nestled into a semi-subterranean corner of Milsom Place, YO! – with its ancient, exposed stone walls and relatively subtle branding – fails to either blot or threaten a uniquely pretty landscape.

Once perched on high, well-upholstered stools around the open kitchen and only inches away from ‘that’ conveyor belt, staff are friendly and efficient, and busy chefs create dashing displays of kitchen theatre wizardry. Plates are colour-coded according to price, with each dish costing between £1.70-£5. But while the opportunity to slurp unlimited miso soup (£1.75) and green tea (£1.25) as you pick and choose is a pretty good deal, charging £1 for water seems an almost unforgivable crime in these recession-struck days, and the prices on for the Asian beer/decent wine selection could hike prices up considerably. Having said that, both quality and portion size are pretty darn good, but seasoned fans of authentic Japanese food may be slightly disappointed by offerings that generally look, feel and taste like close relatives of similar selections found in the chiller cabinet at most high street supermarkets.

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A-Z of Bath Restaurants • Budget restuarants • Lunch-time destinations • Refuelling spots