As fans of the restaurant formerly known as La Flamma (RIP) are already aware, the space occupied by this cheerful new addition to the Bath restaurant scene is pretty spiffy: pavement tables to the front and two softly-lit, inviting dining rooms within, the one beyond the sparkling bar supplemented by both a fresh fish counter and a lovely little patio outback. And if the space is familiar (albeit in a tastefully revamped incarnation) the Aió head honchos may be too: Mauro Matta and Salvo Cuomo have 15 years combined experience in bringing a taste of la dolce vita to Bath in various popular Italian-themed locations around the city; as a result, ambience and service are as slick as first impressions imply.

Menus, meanwhile, are an extremely palatable (if mild-mannered) version of semi-authentic Medi fare, big on fish and well-sourced steaks and refreshingly light on pasta, with not a single pizza in sight. The Pig highly recommends a starter of grilled sardines thrumming with an exotic, Moroccan-themed marinade and is delighted to see the woefully overlooked fregola sarda (plumper and softer than its cous cous cousin) making a welcome appearance as both a main course superstar or as a carby side cart for protein mainly cooked on the chargrill. As you’d expect from an Italian kitchen, treatsome puds at the finishing line are in plentiful supply; the Black Tartufo in particular is a dieter’s downfall.

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A-Z • Alfresco hotspots • Lunch-time destinations • Party venues