Occupying a unique location right on the weir (a sort of contemporary, urban take on a traditional Alpine/boating lodge), the glamorous Italian trattoria Il Tocco d’Italia was best known for introducing Bath to a sophisticated version of la dolce vita around five years ago. But there’s been a bit of a shakeup when it comes to the restaurant’s USP. While the many charms of the restaurant’s original incarnation still remain – the glossy, courtyard-level bar, the spacious first floor dining room complete with alfresco veranda, and, of course, ‘that’ weir view – the restaurant formerly known as Il Tocco is now GG’s: a carnivore’s paradise.

Having said that, those who don’t go weak at the knees for a slab of well-hung flesh aren’t overlooked: there’s always a fresh fish of the day and a vegetarian option on the menu. But really, it’s all about the beef (and pork, and chicken, and even proper mutton), all impeccably sourced by – and handled and aged specifically for – GG’s head honcho Glyn Gronow. The classic, dry-aged New York Porterhouse is set to become a signature dish, and all cuts – including fillet, striploin and ribeye – are cut to order and sold by the ounce. Lunch options include cottage pie and hot salt beef sandwiches (and a proper roast on Sundays) and puds are inspired by the same traditional steakhouse sensibilities (although it’s doubtful that you’d ever find a bread pudding this good at a Berni Inn). The only minor niggle that The Pig found to snuffle about were the rather lacklustre, unremarkable chips that let down an otherwise perfect, meaty feast; go for the mashed potato instead, and you won’t be disappointed.

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