Occupying a comfortable location wedged between proper pub and upmarket bistro, the Marlborough Tavern offers an appealing blend of friendly familiarity and a fresh, smart outlook in both decor and menus. The Pig is particularly appreciative of the sumptuous, bordello-style flock wallpaper and candles in the smoochy corner of the main room. Elsewhere, big, chunky farmhouse tables neatly accommodate all-comers, from old romantics to girls who just wanna have fun. There’s a nice walled garden outback (complete with a considerate, all-weather awning at one end) and food is of the faultless modern British variety: plenty of twists on classic themes, all made from ingredients that boast a perfect pedigree. But don’t let the tarts, tapenades and occasional ‘reconstructions’ divert you from the downhome integrity at the heart of the matter: Sunday roasts are leaders in their field and the homemade burger – made from locally sourced, organically reared beef – is an outstanding example of the genre. Meanwhile, a varied, imaginative selection of regular dining events ensure that there’s always something new going on; little wonder, then, that both the Good Food and Michelin Guides love this place almost as much as The Pig does.

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