By taking inspiration from the lively collection of restaurant/bar hybrids that have confirmed themselves as new old favourites on the heritage city’s munching scene, One Beaufort has brought a little corner of downtown Bath to an area that city dwellers would probably refer to as the suburbs (even though we’re actually only a short walk from the city centre). What was once a tacky ‘sports bar’ is now an easygoing hostelry decked out in full gastropub regalia (chunky furniture, lounging areas, lots of polished wood, etc) and flaunts equally aspirational but unpretentious pretensions at the core of flexible, all-day menus which neatly move with the clock from brunch (on Saturday mornings) to lunch, and on to supper.

Over a trio of trips ‘out of town’, The Pig detected that teething troubles, though minor, are still nibbling around the edges of a kitchen that’s almost perfect: a bland salsa served with otherwise perfect prawns; slightly undercooked mushrooms in an otherwise dreamy mushroom crumble – the sort of creases that, given time and attention, are sure to be ironed out soon. But when One Beaufort is good, it’s very good: if you ever spy duck confit – deeply flavoursome, deeply satisfying and served in a cast iron cassoulet dish – on the Specials Board, grab it quick, but make sure you leave room for a homemade pud. Suddenly, the city’s outer petticoats are very appealing indeed.

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A-Z of Bath Restaurants • Lazy cafes & restaurants • Lunch-time destinations • Party venues