In sharp contrast to the star-spangled roll call of acclaim bestowed upon Bath restaurants by Michelin Guide pundits around this time last year, there’s not much good news to celebrate as this year’s winners are announced. Despite the fact that the 2010 issue of the Good Food Guide (published last autumn) singled out the Marlborough Tavern, Casanis, Minibar, the Olive Tree and the Royal Crescent hotel, amongst others, for approbation, the roly poly guys pretty much overlooked Bath entirely – except, that is, to withdraw the Michelin Star held by the Bath Priory Hotel for almost a decade. Although Priory head chef Michael Caines retains the two stars he holds for the hotel’s sister restaurant (Gidleigh Park in Devon), the news still comes as a blow to those – the Pig included – who big up Caines at every opportunity.
Or does it? Despite the ‘bad’ news, Bath-based foodies know that there’s no shortage of gourmet havens in the city. Could it be possible that the systems behind the ‘Michelin criteria’ – breathlessly summed up by one inspector as “texture, colour and flavour in graceful combination with harmony, detail and precision; accompaniments selected for their deference to the main event but serving an intrinsic purpose to the overall schema” – has, in these cash-strapped, provenance-aware days – become too ‘exclusive’ for its own good?
However much attention you pay to the chef’s equivalent of the Oscars, it’s rarely a good idea to form an opinion based on accolades alone (or conversely, any lack of formal acknowledgment thereof). In the search for the Best Restaurant/Chef Ever, all you need to do is follow your own instincts, listen carefully to personal recommendations, avoid jumping bandwagons and trust the local knowledge of guides like the one you’re visiting right now – you’ll start to define your own little red book of local gourmet greatness in no time at all. And by the way, Michael: the Pig still loves you.
Sunday, January 24th, 2010
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